In April last year we had our first weekend away together. MD kept the destination as a surprise, but he knew if it was anywhere other than Paris, I would have been disappointed. We had the pleasure of dining at (now closed) Le Sergent Recruteur, an intimate former tavern on Ile St-Louis. In the whirlwind of Parisian romance and great hotel sex, I never did write a proper review of the fantastic food. But I can write about the memorable take-aways 18 months on:
- Palette-cleansers can be more than a bowl of cold vegetal soup. They can actually be tantalising as well as refreshing. SR tends to begin the meal with a small glass of fresh juice, in our case something sharp and pink.
- Contrasting colours leave an impression. Out of all the many courses we’ve eaten since, this dish has stuck in our minds. Although not featuring any overpowering flavours, there is something about the vivid green and pink that made this fish memorable.
- The French know how to cook fish. So much flavour for something so delicate, light and well-balanced.
- The French know how to cook meat. Or perhaps they just know how to cook full-stop. This was a typical course of meat, potatoes and veg with a rich stock jus. I’ve read other reviews that critised SR for having a sauce that was too acidic, but I remember this one being perfectly balanced. That umami blend that is not too sweet, nor too savoury, just enough garlic and onion with no flavour dominating the other too much. On top of that, the meat was tender and just the right side of rare, with creamy potatoes and fresh greens. We left wishing that there were more meat courses included in the tasting menu.
- I could make up something here, but desserts were desserts. Still though, LSR was a lovely experience and I’m quite sad that I won’t get to return for an extended menu.